REVIEW: Pentonbridge Inn serves up excellence in every bite

Getting off the train at Carlisle, we were starving.  

It could only be a sausage roll from Pie Demand to put us on – we didn’t want to eat too much as we were dining at the Pentonbridge Inn later and with an eight-course extravaganza ahead of us, we knew we couldn’t fill up too much.  

We’re without wheels at the moment and it can be awkward. It didn’t get off to a great start as we hailed a taxi and the driver’s reaction was ‘where?’.  

Once we got in and postcode was safely in the satnav, we sat back and enjoyed the ride.  

And we drove for miles. And miles. Please don’t ask about the fare.  

Turns out the Pentonbridge Inn is quite a way out without your own transport – get to Longtown and keep going. Thank God for that sausage roll.  

Closer to the Scottish border than Carlisle, it’s nestled in gorgeous countryside. On a glorious day, it really feels like a holiday.  

And the former coaching inn has been restored with love. We stayed in the converted stables/livestock pens. Cute room, thoughtfully designed and comfortable. Dog friendly too. Now, the inn is a popular base for walkers and apparently there’s lots to choose from. We were told this several times by various people.

However, while news never sleeps, Cumbria Crack does enjoy a good nap, so we gave the walking a miss.  

Really, we were there for the food – chef Chris Archer and his team have built up quite a reputation.  

With a Michelin star, first awarded in 2023, and three AA Rosettes, it is among the best the county has to offer.  

And it doesn’t disappoint. It aims for excellence without pretention – and hits its target. 

The restaurant is relaxed, with an open kitchen looking out over diners, and the staff were amazing.  And, oh, the food.  

We do love a bit of fine dining – and if you’re dipping your toe in for the first time or are an old hand at a tasting menu, you couldn’t pick a better place than the Pentonbridge Inn.   

Eight courses (nine including the petit fours) and yes, each dish is small and perfectly formed but no, you don’t need a kebab later.  

Descriptions at this level can be a bit strange – take Savoury Custard and Fresh Peas – but the staff explain it well. 

 Possibly my favourite dish on the menu, it hit all the right notes with me.  

Savoury custard seems to be a bit of a thing at the moment – this one was Japanese-style, with tiny fresh peas, a pea foam, onion crumb and caramelised brioche.  No sniggering at the back, please. Delicious and delicate, it was well balanced and exploded on your tongue.  

My words can’t do it all justice – snacks to start, followed by beef, mackerel, halibut, spring lamb – each dish was a delight.  

Special mention for the bread too – a malted granary loaf, served with potted beef capped with beef dripping. When was the last time you saw that? To be honest, if they’d only served a big dish of that and jettisoned the rest of the menu, my heart would have been theirs there and then.

Extra points to the Pentonbridge Inn for serving mash with the lamb – my husband was in heaven as you rarely see a potato on a Michelin star menu.

The desserts were something else again. Yes, two desserts (following the cheese, naturally, with probably more port than was decent).  

‘Proper sized too,’ said my husband. A beautiful milk ice cream, honeycomb that was nothing like the stuff you get at the funfair and locally produced honey.   

A perfect end to an amazing meal – except the kitchen managed to top it.

Mille Feuille with Scottish Raspberry and White Chocolate was the crowning glory.  

Puff pastry made in-house, raspberry tuille, white chocolate mousse and raspberry ripple ice cream – it melted on your tongue and stays in the memory.  

Would we recommend the Pentonbridge Inn? Absolutely. Would we go back? We’ve already booked for next month…. 

Review: Nicole Regan